Hi, this is Yeannie! 🥰💌 Yesterday I had a meeting with a buyer from the US. The reference product on the table was the MENOKIN 30 Seconds Quick Bubble Mask. You have probably seen it at Olive Young in Korea, and now at Sephora in the US.
Here is the interesting part. The buyer did not want to change anything about it. Instead, they asked just two questions.
- “Can we swap some ingredients for our own brand’s concept ingredients?”
- “Should we go fragrance-free, or add a scent?”
During the consultation, I realized something. These two questions sit at the heart of Korean bubble mask formulation for every brand. So today, let’s use this product as our reference and break it down from a manufacturer’s point of view.
Why Buyers Bring This Mask as a Reference
Korean media report that MENOKIN grew from KRW 230 million in revenue in 2022 to KRW 28 billion in 2025. Its bubble masks have passed 2 million units in cumulative sales. In August 2026, the brand entered Sephora in the US together with Olive Young. In late August, it launched two mists using the same bubble capsule technology, and both sold out right after launch.
From a manufacturer’s view, five things drive its success.
- No sheet, no rinse: You massage it in for 30 seconds and leave it on. The promise of “time-saving skincare” is crystal clear.
- Bubbles in one pump: No need to whip up foam. The massage itself becomes short-form content.
- A six-item lineup: Lift, Bright, Clear, Moist, Repair and Revital each target a different concern, which drives set purchases.
- Fast trend adoption: Repair uses an EGF liposome. Revital, launched this January, combines rose PDRN, NAD+ and peptides.
- A pre-makeup step: Its “makeup sits better” positioning places it between skincare and makeup.
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
A clear reference speeds up development. But aim for “the same experience,” not “the same product.” Keep the 30 seconds, the no-rinse step and the bubble feel. Then fill the formula, scent and claims with what belongs to your brand.
Korean Bubble Mask Formulation: The 3 Layers
A leave-on bubble mask is an essence that a foam pump dispenses as fine bubbles. You massage it into the skin for about 30 seconds and do not rinse it off. It is a separate category from classic clay bubble masks, which create foam with carbonation and wash off. Both the routine and the formula structure differ.
You can read any Korean bubble mask formulation in three layers.
| Layer | Role | Example from the MENOKIN Repair ingredient list |
|---|---|---|
| Foam system | Creates and holds bubbles as the product passes the pump | A mild emulsifier such as Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (inferred from the INCI list) + foam pump |
| Moisture base | Hydration after absorption, and also the source of stickiness | Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, etc. |
| Active layer | The efficacy ingredients that define the concept | EGF liposome (sh-Oligopeptide-1), Niacinamide, Adenosine |
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
MENOKIN’s own instructions say to use a small amount to prevent stickiness. In bubble masks, stickiness mostly comes from the moisture base ratio. That means you can tune it at the formulation stage. We recommend setting the balance between richness and a fresh finish for your target climate first.
Can You Swap in Your Brand’s Concept Ingredients?
This was the buyer’s first question. The answer: “Yes, mostly. But each layer has a different level of difficulty.”
| What you swap | Difficulty | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Actives and extracts (low dose) | Easy | They barely affect the foam structure, so this is the best layer for your concept ingredients |
| Oils, high-dose extracts, salts | Caution | They can weaken foam or change viscosity, so foam tests must be repeated |
| The foam system itself | Close to a redesign | Bubble density and hold are decided here |
One more point. EGF is allowed in cosmetics in the US, but China bans EGF in cosmetics. If you plan to expand to more countries later, review alternative ingredients from the start.
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
Share your list of swap ingredients before development begins. At SPSCOS, re-checking foam density and hold after every ingredient change is part of our standard process. That way, we match your concept and the texture at the same time.
Fragrance-Free or Scented?
This was the second question. The reference, MENOKIN, is fragrance-free. For the US market, two factors favor going fragrance-free.
- Regulation: Under MoCRA, the FDA must decide which fragrance allergens need to appear on labels. As of January 2026, the FDA has not issued this rule yet. Once it does, scented products may need label changes.
- How it’s used: It’s a leave-on product for the face. Consumers with sensitive skin check for fragrance first.
There is also a formulation angle. Adding fragrance oil to a water-based formula requires a solubilizer, and that can affect foam quality. So brands usually choose between three options.
- Fragrance-free: The safest route, and a great match for sensitive-skin claims.
- Low-allergen scent: Keeps your brand mood while minimizing ingredients that may need disclosure.
- Natural ingredient scent: Adds a subtle sensory note from the extracts themselves.
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
Scent is not a finishing touch. It is a decision for the early formulation stage. We set the scent direction with you at the first sample stage and check foam stability under those exact conditions.
Market-Fit Notes for the US and Beyond
It’s already a great product. With the US market (and beyond) in mind, here is where a brand can refine it.
| Point | Why it matters | Suggestion |
|---|---|---|
| The name “bubble mask” | In US Google searches, it mixes with wash-off clay bubble masks and blackhead products | State leave-on / no-rinse clearly on the pack and product page |
| “Instant results” perception | Overseas reviews praise the instant glow but see it as less of a deep treatment | Design actives for your target benefit + prepare claim support for the US |
| Stickiness in hot, humid climates | The small-amount instruction suggests a rich moisture base | Adjust the moisture base to the sales region + run climate-specific stability tests |
We covered why climate-specific stability testing should be standard in our earlier post, Climate Zone Stability Testing.
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
Even if you start with the US only, flag your next expansion markets (China, the Middle East, etc.) early in formulation. It can save a lot of reformulation cost later.
Concept Lab: 3 Ways to Build Your Hero SKU
From this reference, you can take three main directions.
- A primer-type bubble mask: “korean bubble mask primer” shows up in US Google autocomplete. This version leads with pre-makeup claims.
- Signature ingredient + fragrance-free sensitive line: This follows yesterday’s consultation. Fill the active layer with your brand’s hero ingredient and go fragrance-free to cover sensitive skin.
- Bubble format extension: Like MENOKIN’s move into mists, you can extend one bubble technology across several formats.
The right direction depends on your current lineup, price point and sales channels. We need to hear your situation to answer that precisely. You can browse the formulas we’ve developed on our SPSCOS formula page.
💡 Yeannie’s buyer tip
Your hero SKU doesn’t need six variants like the reference. Start with one or two, check the market response, then expand. You carry less inventory, and your next SKU plan gets sharper.
Ingredients Alone Don’t Make a Bubble Mask
A bubble mask isn’t finished with a recipe. All of these need to work together.
- Foam pump components: The pump mesh and formula viscosity must match to get good bubbles.
- Foam stability: Every ingredient or scent change needs a new check on bubble density and hold.
- Climate stability: Temperature and humidity tests should match your sales region.
- MOQ: Foam-pump leave-on formats often come with fairly high MOQs, even in Korea. At SPSCOS, you can start with a low MOQ under the same quality standards. It’s one reason our clients keep working with us after their first product.
So, Here’s How We Make It
In a bubble mask, the foam structure comes before the ingredients. SPSCOS runs concept ingredient swaps and scent design together with foam stability checks, and you can start your first production with a low MOQ. If you have a reference product in mind, bring it as it is. Let’s look together at what we can make yours.
Next Friday, I’ll break down another trending product. Stay tuned for the next Concept Lab! 🫡🪄